I suppose I'd be making myself out to be an over-privileged white boy from coastal suburbia if I were to say that the place in which I find myself absolutely content is the local beach and racquet club. But the Owenego Inn isn't embellished with sleek handrails and tables, an extravagant dinner menu, or scores of wealthy old men and women that drink wine on the highest deck. You won't find valet parking or a signature nautical flag branded onto...